Her name was Rio and she dances on the sand

Oh, what to say about Rio. Heat, nudity, excessive drinking and that was just during the day. Night-time brought new levels of wackiness, usually accompanied by strange and flamboyant clothing. Clothing (or lack there of) was really the defining characteristic of Carnival. Sweltering days brought the bare minimum requirement for clothing, not only to the speedo and thong laden beach, but also to the sidewalks, restaurants, supermarkets and pretty much every other public or private place. When the sun went down, the clothing became a glittering extravaganza! Sequin covered bra cups, fishnet stockings, feathers absolutely ever where…and this was just on the men. The over-the-top costumes displayed at the Sambadrome were matched rhinestone for rhinestone by every meandering street parade, pumping music and joy through every neighbourhood in the city. To say I enjoyed myself would be the understatement of the century.



My arrival to the city of Rio de Janeiro was ushered in with a small riot at the airport. Our plane landed just as another plane that had had two false starts over two days returned again to the tar mack instead of continuing onto it’s destination. Hoards of angry travellers we screaming (in Portuguese) to the immigration officers and soon the passengers who were taping the proceedings with their cameras were having them slapped out of their hand. I unfortunately never found out what happened in the end, as our customs check was hurried through to clear out the already crowded immigration area.

That one little incident really set the tone for my time in Rio. Namely, you never know exactly what to expect. I spent my first night dancing in the street with several people from my hostel. In fact, I spent several nights doing this exact same thing. While plans were often made to go to certain places to check out what the guide book says were the best street parties in town, inevitably the best party was just around the corner or down on the beach. Ipanema, the neighbourhood where my hostel was located, teemed with nightly celebrations that closed off streets, sectioned off the beach and carried on until the next morning when it all started over again. A day spent relaxing on the beach is really the only was to recuperate.



The miles of enticing beach were really a refuge for many reasons. For one the temperature soared during Carnival, topping out at a insanity-inducing 46 degrees Celsius. The breeze coming off the water and the wonderfully cool ocean kept many a person sane. Initially the sheer number of people is a bit overwhelming, but the seemingly never ending stretches of sand allowed for every person to find a place to relax, cool down and work on their tan. This contrast to the energetic night life was a pleasant and necessary surprise!





The real spectacle of Carnival has to be the parades. The most famous takes place in Sambadrome where Samba schools compete over three nights to claim the ultimate prize. Each school has to dance for 80 minutes down the 700 metre concrete gauntlet of bleachers, cameras and dancing, screaming fans. Each school comes armed with choreographed dance routines, massive glittering costumes and massive, mechanical floats. The floats are pushed by hand by multiple volunteers as no motor can be used (to propel the thing forward at least!) The parade begins around 11 at night and continues through the night until the early morning sun. Perhaps my favorite part of the whole experience was afterwards while walking to find the subway home, we ran into many of the dancers going home with their costumes in tow. They were all kind enough to let us try them on and despite being really sweaty, it was really fun.



Equally as exciting are the many local parades that are held in each neighbourhood in Rio. While some have local Samba schools dancing, most were just a gathering of locals in costumes coming together to dance through the streets. The first one we experienced was in Copacabana, where we simply pulled up along side the parade in a taxi and proceeded to get out right there and join in the festivities. Two hours later we ended up at the beach, the final destination of most raucous parades. I'm going to upload multiple photos from that parade so you can all get a real feel for the awesome costumes people choose the wear.









When the last of the parades were done and the city had calmed to the normal buzz of any metropolis, I was finally able to get around to seeing some the sights. I took the cable car to the top of Sugar Loaf Hill where the spectacular 360 degree view allows you to see the city and the ocean both stretching out to the horizon. I also saw some wildlife at the top, most notably with the cute little monkeys that have no fear of people at this point and seem content to pose for pictures from the nearby branches.





I also visited the most iconic Rio de Janeiro symbol of all, Christo Redemptor or Christ the Redeemer. The 100 foot statue towers over the city from it's perch atop Corcovado. Hoards of tourist crowd the base to marvel at the imposing granite figure. Combined with the spectacular view of the city and surrounding area, it certainly is a unique experience.



I'm almost as tired recounting the amazing time I had as I was when I finally left the city to try and finally catch up on a week's worth of lost sleep. Still, it's sleep I would happily trade again for the week that I had. Thanks Rio.

I'm still here

I’m sorry that it has taken me so long to post again and I’m afraid I don’t really have a good excuse (unless Carnival counts as a good excuse!) I plan on making up for it however in the next week or so with 3 brand spanking new posts, so hold on.

I definitely came up against many an obstacle keeping me from seeing the Inca sights that surround the city of Cuzco, most notably Machu Picchu. As some of you may have heard by now, there was record breaking rainfall that has caused flooding, mudslides and general mayhem around Cuzco and surrounding area. During my time in Peru, I had to remind myself that for every bit of annoyance I had due to delayed buses, cancelled trips and extra days spent in places, there were people stranded without food and shelter and had to be airlifted off of Machu Picchu, people who lost their homes and their buisnesses and tragically even a few who have lost their lives. My thwarted travel plans are minimal by comparison and I can only send my thoughts and prayers to those in need.



While I wasn’t able to see many of the Inca sights around Cuzco, I did explore the city and had a blast doing so. It’s a beautiful city that teems with spanish tiled houses that scale the mountain side in which it resides. Initially, simply walking around was a bit of a chore due to the altitude (3500 m) but once my lungs decided to kick into high gear, it became an exciting challenge. The city does tend to be a tourist trap, as it’s the main portal to Machu Picchu, but the picturesque setting, cathedrals, museums and plazas make up for being asked to buy a necklace or mitts at every single corner! The cold weather is also a little jarring after spending so much time on the beach. I wasn’t the only traveller who felt this way, as was evidenced by the matching Alpaca sweaters, mitts and socks that adorned every person at my hostel. I quickly followed on the Alpaca bandwagon after one night in the freezing cold city. I suppose the constant rain didn’t help either...



One thing I am quite grateful for is the quality of the Peruvian cuisine. The tourist restaurants served up all of the popular treats for the foreigners (meaning lots of pizza of course!), but the local dishes turned out to be a welcome surprise. Quinoa and/or Corn soup became a favorite of mine due to the cold weather. Quinoa is an ancient grain that is used in many Central and South American countries. Of course, Llama meat is an interesting dish. It comes grilled, fried, baked and even as a pizza topping. I find it best washed down with an Inca Kola, their version of crème soda. Finally, my most interesting dish had to be baked Cuy...in english, Guinea Pig. I assure you, it’s just as disturbing as it sounds! It is served baked whole, head still attached. While I usually say that I will try anything twice, this is one dish for which I will make an exception: Once is enough! While the actual taste wasn’t that bad, a cross between rabbit and dark turkey meat, the act of munching down on what most of us consider a fluffy little pet was more traumatic than I thought it would be. The nice waiter gave me a free Pisco Sour, the national drink, to wash it down though. Overall though, Peru may be number one in terms of food so far.



From there, I headed down to Puno which is situated on Lake Titicaca, the world's highest navigatable lake. To get there I took the Inca Express, a tour company that lets you see all the sights from Cusco to Puno. We stopped at various ruins, a magnificent Catherdral in Andahuaylillas lined from floor to celing in 24 carat gold leaf (no pictures allowed, sorry) and had a buffet lunch in the small town of Sicuani. Again, while slightly touristy, it was a great way to see the beautiful countryside and take in the culture I may have otherwise missed.



The actual city of Puno, while pleasant enough, for me was really just an access point to Lake Titicaca. I took a day trip to the floating islands of Uros and also to Taquile island. I booked my trip through All Ways Adventures, which I highly recommend, and was treated to a lively chat with the elderly owner and his wife. They had recently visited Ontario and were eager to disccuss their love of Canada and practice their english. What should have been a 10 minute ticket purchase turned into a hour long conversation! The were lovely people however and I was happy to talk. The next morning, as if the 6:30 pick up time wasn’t early enough, I managed to get up and ready to go a whole hour early. Needless to say, I went back to bed for my extra hour of sleep! Uros is essentially a floating city made up of 40 or islands that are made by layering reeds horizontally across each other. They are rebuilt every year by the small tribe that inhabits that particular island. Most islands house only a handful of residents that live very simply in huts made of, you guessed it, reeds. Tourism has made it possible for them to earn a small amount of money from selling goods and many have used this money to buy solar panels to run lights and small heaters in their huts. Despite these advances, mostly they spend their days fishing, gathering plants and making clothing.



From there we headed to the island of Taquile. This cute little terraced island is also home to a traditional group of Quechua-speaking people who continue to work the land as their ancestors did. They do live in more modern homes however and have access to electricity, running water and other modern conviences. They have a rich history of weaving, done by the men, that is evident in their hats that act as a social indicator of their marital status. The women are equally adorned in brightly colored woven clothing, also made by the men! Here we were served a lunch of trout and quinoa soup. Very delicious. We did have to work for it however, by climbing to the top of this mountainous island up a steep stone path. After lunch we got to climb down 500 or so stone steps to the boat below.



While I hated to say goodbye to Peru, my next stop was Buenos Aires and with it my new passport! I now have a full valid passport that I don’t have to explain to every customs agent at every border. What a relief. Being in Buenos Aires, after months spent in Central America and other less advantagous places, was like stepping into another world. The city is as busy as any I’ve ever been in and feels more like Europe than South America, especially due to the arcitecture. It becomes apparent very quickly however that Buenos Aires has a personality unlike any other. Tango music blares from every store front and cafes and bookstores line the streets.

I saw the usual smattering of tourist attractions: the Obelisco, Casa Rosada (most known for the balcony on which Eva Peron energized crowds), Floralis Generica (a giant metal flower that opens and closes with the sun)and all of the other churches, plazas and bulidings that make BA one of the most inviting cities in the world. The most enjoyable activity I found however, was simply exploring the many distinct barrios (neighbourhoods) that make up the city.



I spent sunday afternoon at the Dorrego antiques fair searching through the jewelery, sifonazos, silverware, records and countless other forgotten objects all to the sounds of tango music drifting in the background. Surrounded by cafes, live music and dancing and endless hoards of people, I easily lost three hours.



Wandering down avenida Lavalle, I stumbled in and out of too many book stores to keep track of. While many of them had english sections, looking at old spanish novels was just as interesting. My spanish is improving, but I'm not quite ready to tackle a full length novel just yet!

Perhaps my favorite visit was to the Recoleta Cemetary. Most famous for being the final resting place of Evita, the streets of the walled necropolis are lined with towering marble tombs that act as the final home to Argentinian elite. Statues, plaques and even stain glassed windows adorn many of the mausoleums, some which have coffins within sight. Truly an odd mixture of the extravagant and macabre.



Of all the places I've visited so far, this would easily be the first one I'd want to visit again. And with that, I headed off to Rio for Carnival. Now that's a whole other blog post....

Playing Catch Up

Happy (late) New Year,

While I realize it’s the middle of the month already, I’ve been steadily on the go and my blog has suffered. My apologies. I am here to fix that now with what will probably be the longest blog ever, in history….okay, maybe just the history of my blog, but still, long!



I spent my New Year by subjecting myself to what can only be described as self inflicted torture! I spent five days hiking to and from the Lost City in the mountains of Columbia. The essential outline of the trip is this:

Day One: Climb over a mountain

Day Two: Climb over a mountain

Day Three: Climb over a mountain, scale a cliff, cross a river several times and then climb 2000 ancient stairs to finally reach the Lost City (Yay)

Day Four: Climb down those stairs, back across that cliff and back over that mountain.

Day Five: Day One and Two combined!



It was physically exhausting, but one of the most amazing things I’ve ever done! Being in the middle of the mountains in that city and seeing the work that the ancient Columbians put into this place without the benefit of mules, guides and direction like we had was eye opening. Our group of 9 was led by Miguel, a 23 year old Columbian who has spent his life showing tourists his country’s heritage. His mother and father were our additional cooks, porters and guides. Truly a family affair.



We rang in the New Year with Champagne and Rum that was (carefully) schlepped the whole way with spectacular views of the city and jungle. Being true to the diverse nature of our group, we had several New Year toasts, following the various time zones of all the Nations represented by our group. The following morning during our official tour of the city, we were all surprised when one of the men in our group proposed to his longtime girlfriend. It was a touching moment that we were all privileged to witness. We couldn’t have been happier for them.

We unfortunately had a bad surprise as well. During the last day of our trip, one of our fellow trekkers slipped off a rock during a river crossing and broke his ankle. He was carried over the final mountain at impressive speed in a hammock strung up on a bamboo pole by several guides and porters. He has since has surgery to repair all the ripped tendons and had 4 screws placed in his leg. We all visited him once we got back to Santa Marta and he was in amazing spirits. He is a friend we will all be happy to have for the rest of our lives. Here’s to a quick recovery!



After recovering on the beach for a day or two in Santa Marta, I said goodbye to my friends and headed off to Bogota. What a change to be in a hectic city again after the tranquility of the remote jungle. After getting over the startling temperature change (an almost 20 degree drop), I soaked up the culture of the bustling city. I visited both the Gold Museum and the Botero Museum and was impressed with both.

The Gold Museum did not fail to deliver on its name with an amazing collection of local gold artifacts from a variety of time periods. While it included other precious metals and a variety of artifacts, the gold is definitely the star.



The Botero Museum features work by Fernando Botero, a treasured Columbian artist. His work is best described as fat. People, animals and even inanimate objects are all a rotund version of their proper selves. He uses all sorts of mediums to bring this unique vision to the world. The museum also features works by other artists such as Picasso, Monet and Dali to name a few. A good way to spend a couple of hours and free to boot!



From Bogota, I headed off the Ecuador. I decided to stay with the big city vibe and head for Guayaquil. It’s a hectic place and its main drag, 9 de Octubre, feels a little like walking down 5th Avenue in New York City...almost. The city has an amazing waterfront promenade called Malecon 2000 that covers 2.5 kms of the river. It has something for everyone. I spent a lazy afternoon eating lunch by a pond feeding ducks and coy fish and then headed down to the full shopping mall on the other end.



At one end of the promenade are the historic neighborhoods of Las Penas and Cerro Santa Ana, which are both located on the upward slope of a small hill overlooking the whole city. The buildings and walkways have all been refurbished and repaved to offer a casual walking experience similar to that of any small European village. There is a never ending, winding flight of stairs weaves through the entire place and culminates at the top of the hill with a lighthouse and a church. The stairs are numbered as well, so you know when you’ve taken your last step up the 444 stairs. The view from the top is beautiful and the walk down is twice pleasant as the climb!



Aside from these main tourist stops, there is the requisite Central Park and accompanying Cathedral. The smaller Park Bolivar however, had much more interesting patrons! There were fish and turtles in the small pond and around 50 lizards of varying sizes! At first I thought they were contained to the small fenced in area surrounding the pond, but then I spotted a couple lounging of the grass behind a bench. And then I saw a couple at the base of a tree. And then I saw one climb up a tree. And that’s when I looked up. Each branch of the tree was weighed down with several large lizards like a scene out of a Hitchcock movie. While I’m typically not too squeamish about animals of any kind, this sent a shiver up my spine! Realizing that there were several trees in the park probably teeming with giant Komodo Dragons (overactive imagination), I quickly fled…



All the way to Lima, Peru! I only spent a couple of days in Lima as a travel point for the rest of Peru, but saw a few things in yet another bustling Metropolis. I saw the parks and churches, walked the main tourist strips and got a nice view of the beach. The coolest thing I checked out however was the Huaca Pucllana, which is a crumbling Pyramid in the center of town. The ruin is pre Incan and the people who built it can be claimed by the city of Lima only. They are working to restore much of the mud-brick structure that has been destroyed by human interference. The actual underlying structure has held up well however as it was built in such a way to stand up to earthquakes. A good little tour with a English speaking guide was only 3 bucks and we even got to pet a llama (named Paco).



I also tried to go on a tandem paragliding trip, but got rained out twice. Boo. Oh well, maybe the next time I make it Lima.

My last destination (at least for this post) was Nazca. A small city that lies in the middle of the desert. Famed for the massive lines and geoglyphs that cover the desert, it easy to see that tourism is the main money making venture as soon as you step off the bus. A dozen guys are immediately on you trying to sell you a flight over the lines. I, however, booked mine in advance. Finally a chance to use my aerial setting on my camera.



From the small local airport, dozens upon dozens of flights leave all day to head over the open desert. We were in a small 4 person plane and while I have no real fear of flying, even that was a bit much for me at first. Once the pictures started showing up though, I was pleasantly distracted. There are 14 very clear pictures that are amazing and several other shapes and partial pictures to see. My favorite was either the monkey, with the crazy spiral tail or the baby condor. It baffles the mind to think how these shapes were made so big and so perfect with no real indication that they were visible from above as we were lucky enough to see them. They’re still trying to figure it out…



Well that’s all for now. *catches breath* I am headed off to Cuzco next and am trying to work myself up to eating Guinea Pig; apparently it’s a local delicacy.

Aynsley out!